The Complete Modern Blacksmith

The Complete Modern Blacksmith

Language: English

Pages: 304

ISBN: 0898158966

Format: PDF / Kindle (mobi) / ePub

A truly unusual and unique resource, this extremely hands-on book brings together three popular but long-out-of-print classics (THE MODERN BLACKSMITH; THE RECYCLING, USE, AND REPAIR OF TOOLS; and THE MAKING OF TOOLS) essential for anyone interested in the making, repair, maintenance, or arcana of tools. An essential volume in any serious craftperson's library, this book covers setting up a smithy (anvil, forge, hammer, tongs, and all), and manufacturing everything from stone-carving chisels to decorative wall hooks.

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steel-construction plant nearby that uses this cutting method, they will surely have some 8- to 10-inch discards to give you or sell for little. (See Chapter 6 for making a side grinder.) If you have a table saw, you can mount side-grinding abrasive discs on it in place of the saw blade. First, remove all sawdust that might be ignited by sparks coming from the disc. Second, be sure to protect your machine from abrasive dust that might reach any bearings that have not been properly sealed. Such

centrifugal fan is good. One driven by an electric motor, controlled by a foot-pedal rheostat switch, functions well. Even an old hair-dryer fan, without the heating element, can be adapted to do the job. It is here that the question comes up: which is preferred, a hand-cranked blower or a machine-driven one? My preference has always been for the hand-cranked blower. It has the self-governing feature of the air flow stopping automatically when you stop cranking. If you use an electric fan, make

out is to place the bottom fuller in the hardy hole and hammer the bar out on it instead of on the horn. Flatten ridges on the anvil face, etc. To widen a bar, use the peen end of the hammer spreading the steel sideways only. While there is still enough heat, flip hammer over in mid-air, as described before, using the flat face to drive down the ridges left by the peen. This stretches the workpiece sideways once more within one heat. To spread the steel in all directions, first use the ball

made with the same tin can material or any other sheet metal you may find appealing. Keep in mind that punches for cutting through steel do not need to be absolutely razor sharp. If they are slightly dull, it introduces an element of surprise when the metal is punched on the rubber blanket glued on a stump. If the punch is slightly dull it merely indents the metal, leaving an interesting low-relief design. To make of this a high-relief pattern, turn the decoration over and use the repoussé

this stack so that each is exactly the same as the others. From these make miniature chisels with different cutting edges. Fit the tapered end of each into a chisel-holder socket; it should be easy to insert or knock out the chisels so you can replace one with another when you want a different cutting edge. MAKING THE CUTTING BLADE SOCKET The holder is an annealed high-carbon steel bar or rod as shown. Drill a small hole in the end of the holder. Heat the holder end to a light cherry red

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