Black & Decker The Complete Guide to Windows & Entryways: Repair - Renew - Replace (Black & Decker Complete Guide)
Format: PDF / Kindle (mobi) / ePub
Both for practicality and curb appeal, windows and doors are the most crucial mechanical feature of any home, and this book helps homeowners preserve and improve these essential elements. A fabulous door can add thousands of dollars in "perceived value" to a plain house, just as a few new windows can shave off a decade or two in apparent age.
Black & Decker The Complete Guide to Windows & Entryways is a fully-updated revision of Black & Decker The Complete Guide to Windows & Doors. At 288 pages, it features more than 600 beautiful color photographs that are rich with current information. It contains virtually everything readers need to plan and complete any kind of window and door installation. The new version also features an expanded section on door and window hardware, as the types, styles and finishes change frequently. Also new in this edition: an expanded the section on installing and maintaining garage doors; a complete start-to-finish project for enlarging a basement window opening and installing an egress window; a quick and easy technique for giving your fiberglass door the appearance of woodgrain; and much, much more. You'll find no better single book that better covers the ever-changing topic of choosing, installing and maintaining doors and windows.
windows and low bay windows with window seats to be glazed with tempered glass for safety. Tips for Installing a Bay Window Use prebuilt accessories to ease installation of a bay window. Roof frames (A) come complete with sheathing (B), metal top flashing (C), and step flashing (D) and can be special-ordered at most home centers. You will have to specify the exact size of your window unit and the angle (pitch) you want for the roof. You can cover the roof inexpensively with building paper
1" from the bottom edges, using 2" galvanized utility screws. Attach the skirt board pieces to the skirt frame. Drill 1/8" pilot holes every 6" through the back of the skirt frame and into the skirt boards, then attach the skirt boards with 2" galvanized utility screws. Measure the space inside the skirt boards using a T-bevel to duplicate the angles. Cut a skirt bottom from ¾" exterior-grade plywood to fit this space. Lay fiberglass insulation on the skirt bottom. Position the
on an interior door may require the installation of additional blocking. For installation over an exterior door or a window, nail the pieces in place directly to the load-bearing framing in the wall above the opening. How to Install a Decorative Door Header Measure the width of your door casing and rough-cut a piece of bed or crown molding 6" longer. Use the casing width dimension to lay out cut marks on the bottom edge of the molding. Start the marks 2" from the end to allow space for
gap line. Do not press the plywood down into the carpet when drawing the line. If the flooring is uneven, open the door to where it rubs the most and use this spot to mark the gap. Remove the door from the jamb by tapping out the hinge pins with a hammer and flat-blade screwdriver. If the hinge pins are fixed, you’ll need to unscrew the hinge leaves from the jamb instead. To prevent the saw from chipping the wood as it cuts, use a sharp utility knife to score along the cutting line.
a Temporary Stud Wall (Joists Perpendicular to Wall) Build a 2 × 4 stud wall that is 4 ft. wider than the planned wall opening and 1¾" shorter than the distance from floor to ceiling. Raise the stud wall and position it 3 ft. from the wall, centered on the planned rough opening. Slide a 2 × 4 top plate between the temporary wall and the ceiling. Check to make sure the wall is plumb, and drive shims under the top plate at 12" intervals until the wall is wedged tightly in place.